Introduction

Cooch Behar formed part of the Kamarupa Kingdom of Assam from the 4th to the 12th. In the 13th century, the area became a part of the Kamata Kingdom. The Khens ruled till about 1498 CE, when they fell to Alauddin Hussain Shah, the independent Pathan Sultan of Gour. The new invaders fought with the local Bhuyan chieftains and the Ahom king Suhungmung and lost control of the region. During this time, the Koch tribe became very powerful and proclaimed itself Kamateshwar (Lord of Kamata) and established the Koch dynasty. The first important Koch ruler was Bisu, later called Biswa Singha, who came to power in 1515 CE. Under his son, Nara Narayan, the Kamata Kingdom reached its zenith. Nara Narayan's younger brother, Shukladhwaj (Chilarai), was a noted military general who undertook expeditions to expand the kingdom. He became governor of its eastern portion. As the early capital of the Koch Kingdom, Koch Behar's location was not static and became stable only when shifted to Cooch Behar town. Rup Narayan, on the advice of an unknown saint, transferred the capital from Attharokotha to Guriahati (now called Cooch Behar town) on the banks of the Torsa river between 1693 and 1714. After this, the capital was always in or near its present location. In 1661 CE, Pran Narayan planned to expand his kingdom. However, Mir Jumla, the subedar of Bengal under the Mughal emperor Aurangazeb, attacked Cooch Behar and conquered the territory, meeting almost no resistance. The town of Cooch Behar was subsequently named Alamgirnagar. Pran Narayan regained his kingdom within a few days.

Cooch-Behar Rajbari

Cooch Behar Palace, also called the Victor Jubilee Palace, is a landmark in Cooch Behar city, West Bengal. It was modeled after Buckingham Palace in London and was built in 1887, during the reign of Maharaja Nripendra Narayan of Koch dynasty. It is currently a museum. The Cooch Behar Palace, noted for its elegance and grandeur, is a property of The Mantri's. It is a brick-built double-story structure in the classical Western style covering an area of 51,309 square feet (4,766.8 m2). The whole structure is 395 feet (120 m) long and 296 feet (90 m) wide and is on rests 4 feet 9 inches (1.45 m) above the ground. The Palace is fronted on the ground and first floors by a series of arcaded verandahs with their piers arranged alternately in single and double rows. During the reign of Maharaja Harendra Narayan, the capital was shifted from Dhaluabari Palace to Cooch Behar Palace in 1828.

At the southern and northern ends, the Palace projects slightly and in the center is a projected porch providing an entrance to the Durbar Hall. The Hall has an elegantly shaped metal dome which is topped by a cylindrical louver type ventilator. This is 124 feet (38 m) high from the ground and is in the style of the Renaissance architecture. The intros of the dome is carved in stepped patterns and Corinthian columns support the base of the cupola. This adds variegated colors and designs to the entire surface. There are various halls in the palace and rooms that include the Dressing Room, Bed Room, Drawing Room, Dining Hall, Billiard hall, Library, Toshakhana, Ladies Gallery and Vestibules. The articles and precious objects that these rooms and halls used to contain are now lost. The original palace was 3 storeyed, but was subsequently destroyed by the 1897 Assam earthquake. The palace shows the acceptance of European idealism of the Koch kings and the fact that they had embraced European culture without denouncing their Indian heritage.

Madan Mohan Temple

Lord Shiva worshipper Maharaja Nara Narayan (1554-1588 AD) influenced by Sankardev (Baishnav spiritual preacher of Assam), sculpted the original murti of Lord Madan Mohan. The current temple was built during the 19th century AD. On 8th July, 1889 Maharaja Nripendra Narayan laid the foundation stone of the temple. Rajmata Nishimoyee Devi inaugurated the Madan Mohan temple on 21st March, 1890. Anandamoyee Dharamshala was inaugurated by Maharaja Nripendra Narayan to the east of the temple premise. Family deity of the royal Koch dynasty, 'Madan Mohan' is the Thakur (God) of the people living in Cooch Behar.

Deity of Madan Mohan is in the central room over which the dome rests like a white lotus. There are two murtis of Madan Mohan in the temple. Both the murtis are placed silver-clad chowdola (four-stand cradle). The two murtis are known as Bara Madan Mohan and Chhoto Madan Mohan. Devotees can have darshan of Bara Madan Mohan daily. Chhoto Madan Mohan stays behind and gives darshan to devotees only for three days in a year. The main sanctum sanctorum is without the image of Radha. This is because Maharaja Nara Narayan (1554-1588 AD) influenced by Sankardev (Vaishnav spiritual preacher of Assam) sculpted the murti of Madan Mohan. Radha Rani is not part of the teachings of Sankardev. The murti of Madan Mohan is golden in color and is made of ashtadhatu – amalgamation of eight metals). A Shaligram Shila (stone type) named Anantadeb or Ananta Narayan is worshipped every day before the worship of Bara Madan Mohan. Beside this two other Shilas - Janardhan Narayan and Lakshmi Narayan are also worshipped daily. A piece of black stone of approximately 7 inches is placed on the cradle of Madana Mohan. It is known as Ma Pat Debati or Pat Parvati and dus bhuja or ten-armed structure of Madan Mohan is drawn on the stone. This idol is specially worshipped in the Joytara temple and then after been put back to the cradle of Lord Madan Mohan. There is also a Banalinga in the shrine. A separate temple of Ma Bhavani is situated on the eastern boundary of the temple Madan Mohan temple complex. The 2 feet tall stone idol of Maa Bhavani with Her ten arms stands in the position of striking Asura. The idol is brightly red colored. The clay idol of Goddess Durga at Debibari is sculptured in this similar style every year on Sharadiya Durga Puja. Mounted on tiger to the left and on lion to the right, Goddess is seen in the stance of attacking Asura with spear. The temple complex also has murtis of Maa Katyayani, Maa Joytara and Maa Annapurna.

Baneshwar Shiva Temple

Situated at a distance of about 10 km north of Coochbehar town, is an ancient temple dedicated to Lord Shiva, known as the Baneshwar temple. The temple is reputed to date back to 1100 B.C. and has a Shiva lingam 10 feet below the plinth level. By the side of the main temple is another temple which has the idol of Ardhanarinateswar. On the occasions of Madan Chaturdashi and Dol Purnima this idol is carried temporarily to the Madan Mohan Temple of Coochbehar town, which has given the name of Movable Baneshwar. There is a big pond within the temple campus having a large number of tortoises. Some of the tortoises are very old and big in size and can be fed with puffed rice.

The beginning of Baneswar Shiva temple is mired in mythology. According to popular belief the legendary Raja Banasura, an ardent devotee of Shiva had made the latter agree to come down to earth. When Shiva was following Raja Banasura, the latter suddenly stopped at Baneswar (earlier name Gordasandara), which was a breach of agreement. Shiva instantly disappeared and later established a Shiva-linga on the banks of the Bangti River. Many believe that the place was named after the Raja. However, there is no mention of the temple in the legend.

According to some, the temple was built by Raja Jalpeswar, who built the Jalpesh temple. He is believed to have ruled in the second or third century and is mentioned in ‘Jalpesh Mahatya’. Some others think that Raja Nilambar of the Khen dynasty had built it. Yet others think that Maharaja Nara Narayan of the Koch dynasty established it and Maharaja Pran Narayan of the Cooch Behar State subsequently revamped it.The temple has a Shiva linga and a ‘Gouripat’ in the garbhagriha, 3.1 metres (10 ft) below the plinth level.